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Sartorially Speaking By Marc Kadish
I've written this style column for five years. I still don't know whether it's called a column or a blog. It's just a hobby. I addressed that in my first column, "Since I Don't Play Golf." As I grow older I spend more time thinking about family, friends and my experiences growing up. I started working at my uncle's clothing store in South Orange, New Jersey when I was 14 . I worked there through high school, college and law school. Spending time at Syd Jerome brings back those memories. Sid reminds me of my uncle; Scott reminds me of my cousin Marty; the salesmen remind me of the salesmen from my uncle's store. I like men's fashions; talking about the business with Scott, the salesmen and the sales reps who visit the store. I also like helping men find their personal style. Last week I exchanged emails with a former associate from Mayer Brown. He worked with me as a high school Summer Intern. We kept in touch while he was in college and law school. He came to the firm and is now clerking for a federal judge. More importantly he is getting married this Summer. The emails went back and forth about what he and the men in his wedding party should wear. One other thing I want to express in this column is my love for Chicago. I moved here in 1969 when I received a Reginald Heber Smith Poverty Law Fellowship. My Mother's Day surprise for Suzin was tickets for the play " Shakespeare in Love " at the Chicago Shakespeare Theater on Navy Pier. The play is an adaption of the movie of the same name. The theater space is magnificent; the play was great. It was a bright sunny day. During intermission Suzin and I looked through the huge windows seeing the lakefront and the skyline. It's easy to celebrate Chicago on such a day. Just as it is easy to celebrate the unique role that Syd Jerome plays in men's fashions in the city. Feel free to contact me through the store. Remember it is just a hobby. I am still the Pro Bono Advisor at Mayer Brown. PRO BONO (?) AND FASHION I added a question mark because pro bono deals with the delivery of legal services to people and organizations in need – not the delivery of clothes. But this column is about the delivery of gently used men’s clothing by Syd Jerome to the Precious Blood Ministry of Reconciliation in Chicago. Their website defines their mission:
They also need clothing. While the Illinois Department of Corrections has a program called “Release Pants” for inmates upon their release, the clothing signals that you have just been released from prison. Alan Mills, the Executive Director of the Uptown Peoples Law Center (where I am a member of their Board of Directors), who is one of the country’s leading experts on inmate civil rights cases, told me:
Scott Shapiro, the owner of Syd Jerome asked me to find an organization where a large number of garments could be put to good use. The store accepts clothing from customers when they are refreshing their wardrobes. Jennifer Vollen Katz, the Executive Director of the John Howard Association put me in touch with the Precious Blood Ministry. The John Howard Association, which Mayer Brown supports both financially and membership on its boards, is an independent citizen correctional oversight organization. The first picture shows 50 garments being loaded into Joseph (Joe Joe) Mapp’s car. He is the Manager and Director of Re-Entry of the CP for P program (Communities Partnering for Peace) at Precious Blood Ministry. Mr. Mapp is with Scott Shapiro in the second photo. The third photo is with Mr. Mapps, Scott, Billy Cavada and Edward Harrington, two salesmen from the store.
If you want to donate gently used garments bring them to the store and take a look at some of the new clothing that has arrived for the fall. Edward, trying to make me look fashionable, took the photo of me on the Daley Plaza in the Loop wearing one of the new overcoats from Luigi Bianchi.
P.S. The third season of “Upload”, the TV show that our daughter, Izzy, writes for was just released on Amazon Prime. There was a short favorable review in the NY Times – proud parents! Also happy because they will start writing the fourth year now that the strike is ending!
Dress Codes What are they? Legally imposed? Flowing from Societal Values? Personal choice? I’ve been thinking about this for several months. Part of it inspired by a book I read. For additional inspiration I reread some of my old columns and realized that I wrote about dress codes several times. Part of it inspired by the men’s dress codes in the series ‘The White Lotus.’ Also because of a column that Vanessa Friedman, the Fashion Director and Chief Fashion Critic at the New York Times wrote about the Republican Congressman George Santos titled “Clothes Make the Con Man – George Santos used fashion to flout the rules.” The Book The book I read is called “Dress Codes – How the Laws of Fashion Made History.” The author is Professor Richard Thompson Ford of Stanford Law School. I read a column he wrote for the New York Times in 2017 entitled “The Ties That Blind.” It was about Donald Trump’s dress code where he asked: “What do those shiny, badly knitted, neckties say about the president?” I thought the column was better than Trumps fashion sense, which along with his politics, never improved. The professor’s book was published in 2021. It was favorably reviewed in the book section of the Sunday NY Times: “Taking readers around the world on an ambitious and comprehensive exploration of how fashion has been used by people both with and without money and power.” He explained how the laws of fashion sometimes became the law of the land. Run afoul of one and you would run afoul of the other. Today breaking a fashion code normally does not lead to an arrest but does it have consequences? Some Dress Codes When I joined Mayer Brown in 1999 I thought that “Casual Friday” meant you could wear a blue shirt with a tie rather than a white shirt with a tie. – No consequences – and now I don’t see many ties. The Federal Seventh Circuit Court of Appeals in Chicago still has a dress code for oral arguments: “conservative business dress in traditional dark colors e.g. navy blue or charcoal grey” My column on the rule showed me wearing a light grey suit which I would wear when we had oral argument on a pro bono case. I was never excluded from the courtroom. I wrote about my family’s experience in attending Wimbledon. I almost ran afoul of their dress code for admission to the private club where we had been given passes. “Acceptable Dress” – The dress standard for gentleman is a lounge suit or tailored shirt, tie trousers, jacket and dress shoes (with socks)” Jeans are not considered trousers at Wimbledon. I did not have dress shoes but I snuck by with black socks which I happened to pack for the trip. Jeans now comply with most fashion codes. The University Club in Chicago still has a dress code. My friend, Peter Birnbaum, invited me to be his guest for lunch. I was reminded of the dress code before the lunch: “Smart Casual Attire is permitted, which includes non-distressed denims, t-shirts, and athletic shoes” The picture for that had me wearing a corduroy sport coat, t-shirt, blue jeans and what I refer to as dress sneakers. Personal Dress Codes Which brings me to a personal dress code – how you see yourself and how you want the world to see you. In a more recent column I wrote about “The Outfit,” a movie starring the British actor, Mark Rylance. He played a bespoke tailor who made suits for the Chicago mob in the 1950s. he spoke about clothing reflecting a man’s personality. “All clothing says something. I’ve had gentleman walk into my shop and boast ‘Oh I don’t care about what I wear.’ And assuming that is true – doesn’t that say something too” “Is this a man of Spring-time pastel clamoring to be noticed? Or is this a man of grey and brown, blending into the hurried crowd?” Which colors reflect your personality? Much was written about fashion in “The White Lotus”, but it was linked to the female actors. What about the men and how their dress reflected who they were? The DiGrasso men’s clothing - grandfather, son and grandson – who traveled to Italy to find their roots – reflected who they were. Which one of them would shop at Syd Jerome? Grandpa, F. Murray Abraham, would have shopped there as a younger man. But his fashion sense slipped as he aged. It was outdated. He should have purchased some updated clothing for the trip. Michael Imperioli, the father, would be a current customer at the store. He would have come into the store for a vacation wardrobe and asked for the latest Italian fashions. Adam DiMarco, the grandson, who was scammed by the young Sicilian woman out of $50,000, would not have come to the store even if his father offered to pay for a new wardrobe. As a recent college graduate from a prestigious university he thought his clothes did not matter. His appearance reflected his naivety which made him a perfect mark for the scam. Image credit HBO/SKY via Independent, linked to source.
George Santos Speaking of scams – this brings us to the case of George Santos. His sense of fashion does reflect his personality, and he used it to fool the world. He got away with it for a time because he looked so convincing. As Vanessa Friedman wrote about his clothes: “—The uniform of preppy private school boys everywhere” She ended the column: “We are so much more likely to believe a story if it is embedded in the code we expect, dress code being among the first.” It appears his preppy look has not helped him evade the criminal laws. The only dress code that will be open to him in the future will be an Orange Jump suit or some other dress code dictated by prison rules. P.S. Below is a photo of James Pierce from Mayer Brown. He is a finance lawyer with the firm. But he is also one of the contestants in the new Bachelorette show on ABC. In a future column we will talk about his experiences on the show and the type of clothing he was encouraged to wear. I wish I had met James before the show was aired so we could have gone to Syd Jerome to pick out his outfits for the show. But we have spoken about his interest in fashion so I hope he can attend the men’s wholesale show at the Mart when Scott and I attend the August show.
SOME RANDOM THOUGHTS ON OUR SEPTEMBER TRIP TO ITALY
WHAT TO WEAR? “The Godfather is the sum of all wisdom. The Godfather is the answer to any question. Even “What should I pack for my Summer vacation?”
Tom Hanks from the movie “You’ve Got Mail”. It was the same question I asked myself before we left for the Cinque Terra area and Sicily.
Pashmere sportwear coming to Syd Jerome in Spring/Summer 2023
THE FACTORY VISIT IN SICILY
With Nicola, left; and Cettina, far right, at Osteria Al Canale NO GODFATHER TOURS?
If you're on Spotify, feel free to listen to the main theme music from the film.
“THE OUTFIT-" A Film Noir
“Leonard sews four When purchasing clothing at Syd Jerome, are the tailors akin to Glen Gould playing a Steinway? Do they create bespoke clothing? They are craftsmen but they do not create bespoke clothing. A bespoke garment is made by hand and is one of a kind. They come close. I have seen them modify a garment to fit a man you thought needed a bespoke suit. Click to view the video trailer:
P.S. I'd like to wish Syd Jerome stylist Gary Palay a happy retirement. He worked for Syd Jerome for 14 years and we will miss him. VISITING THE ANNUAL WINTER PRIVATE WHOLESALE MEN'S SHOW The annual winter private wholesale men’s show took place in early February at the Mart in Chicago. Normally I attend the show with Scott Shapiro, the owner of Syd Jerome. I fool myself into imagining that I help him make purchases for the store. This year our schedules did not mesh. I decided not to attend but Scott urged me to attend because I had a buyer’s badge (of course without any authority to buy goods). It was a different experience. Scott, because of his long history in the business, cannot walk through the aisles without being stopped by vendors. Few people knew me. I walked quietly through the aisles where over 350 companies were showing their goods. I wanted to learn more about the brands I have purchased at the store. These were well made, stylish and worth the investment.
GRAN SASSO SWEATERS
HESTRA GLOVES
MAC JEANS THE SEARCH FOR THE CANALI BOUTIQUE IN YEREVAN, ARMENIA, WHILE TEACHING AT A RULE OF LAW PROGRAM
THE CHICAGO COLLECTIVE- "FASHIONATING!" The Chicago Collective is the premiere national menswear show held in Chicago every February and August. The three day show, which will expand to four days this February, brings together over 500 exhibitors and buyers. It is not open to the public but it does have a public website. All the sales personnel from Syd Jerome attend the show. I have been going with the owner, Scott Shapiro, since I started writing the blog over five years ago. I find it a “fashionating “ experience. Scott and I have a unique working relationship at the show. Most of the things I like, he tells me will not sell at the store. On occasion we agree. We both liked the shirts from Tintoria Mattei. One of the pictures I took shows Scott ordering their shirts. We both liked the blue collarless shirt. I sometimes just wander around and take photos of some of the other lines the store buys such as pocket squares from Edward Amrah, clothing from Samuelsohn and Atelier Munroe, jeans from Monfrere and t-shirts from Autumn Cashmere. “Fashionating?” A word conceived of by Will Crosby, an IT Learning and Development Specialist in Mayer Brown’s New York office. He has been trying to help me become more proficient with the firm’s technology. We both share a love of men’s fashions. He explained that the word signifies “the thoughtful composition of an outfit.” I’ve just modified its use to explain how I find the Chicago Collective “fashionating.” The last picture? Me with my Syd Jerome garment bag getting ready to spend a week in Armenia teaching Armenian judges, prosecutors and investigators at the Academy of Justice. Next blog: “ The Rule of Law, Men’s Fashions in Armenia and the Search for the Canali Boutique” in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia.
HENRY AND CAROLINE CAME TO SYD JEROME FOR A SUIT FOR A WEDDING
A LESSON
MARC AND PETER HAVE LUNCH AT THE UNIVERSITY CLUB
The Suits of James Bond By Marc Kadish
Bond, James Bond. Shaken, not stirred. We all know these two iconic phrases uttered by every James Bond and it’s not just the ‘007’ movie franchise or famous lines that have influenced generations of men all over the world. The style of the world’s most famous spy is equally admired by men everywhere. James Bond’s style is mostly about the suits, a well-fitted suit. But have you ever wondered the evolution of the James Bonds’ suit styles? And what does this have to do with Syd Jerome’s? In the original Ian Fleming novels, James Bond did not have an extensive wardrobe. His sartorial style was not an important component of his character. Besides, a real secret agent should not draw attention to themselves. When Sean Connery was selected as the first Bond, Terence Young, the director of “Dr. No,” “From Russia with Love” and “Thunderball” took him to his tailor on London’s Savile Row. Although Connery had done some fashion modeling for sportswear, but never suits. Young made Connery sleep in the suits so he would feel comfortable wearing them. His suits were made in a subdued English Savile Row style, which tend to be harder and sharper than tailoring made elsewhere. They use more shoulder padding and canvas, and prioritize straight, angular lines. Although there are variations in style, all Savile Row suits have this smart, structured look. The next two Bonds, George Lazenby and Roger Moore continued with the Savile Row look. Timothy Dalton, the next Bond, got short shrift in the Internet research I conducted. The only information I could locate referred to his style as the “Power Business” suit of the 1980s and 90s. Although I liked Dalton as Bond, the less said about the power suit the better. Pierce Brosnan’s selection as the next Bond in 1995 was marked by the transition from Savile Row to Italian cut suits. Brosnan wore Brioni suits. In fact, Brioni is one of my favorite brands that Syd Jerome carries. When Daniel Craig starred in “Casino Royale” he also wore a Brioni suit. But in subsequent films, he returned to a more Savile Row look.
So which actor do you think personified the Bond style: Connery, Lazenby, Moore, Dalton, Brosnan or Craig? Lazenby and Moore would be my least favorites because they remind me of the suits I wore in the 70s-lapels and ties way too wide. Choosing between Connery, Brosnan and Craig is a toss-up. Connery’s style was the original. Both Brosnan and Craig looked great in their Brioni suits. In some of their films, they wore a three-piece vested suit, a style I have always favored.
In a future blog, let’s explore Cary Grant’s famous gray suit from “North by Northwest.” Although he had 16 of the same suits made by a Savile Row tailor, he could have come to Syd Jerome for his suit. After all, parts of the film were shot in Chicago. It was filmed around the time that Sid Shapiro opened the store. How Remote Work is Shaping Our Style and Why it Shouldn’t Take a Hit! On May 25th, George Floyd was killed in Minneapolis. Four police officers are charged in connection with his death. A civil law suit is filed. A press conference is held. There, Antonio Romanucci, a Chicago plaintiff’s attorney, is part of the legal team representing the Floyd family. He’s wearing a suit with a silk facemask. He must shop at Syd Jerome, I thought, as it looks like a Canali suit and one of the Italo Ferretti silk facemasks (as seen here in the photo). Sure enough, Billy Cavada at Syd Jerome takes care of him. I had heard of Tony and his law partner, Stephan Blandin, but we had never met. I called him to discuss his views on fashion and the brands he likes to wear. He favors Canali suits and Eton shirts. Specifically, he usually wears navy suits with Eton shirts. He also likes Paul and Shark for sportswear. I asked him: Why navy? He says he feels more comfortable in a navy suit while in court. Feeling more comfortable and confident enhances his effectiveness in court. But I wasn’t going to court and I have been working remotely. I am not a huge fan of remote work because I like being with people. I like the camaraderie of law. With permission, I eventually returned to the office. While I missed seeing everyone, it was quiet and I was getting work done. But I did not want to wear sweatpants, so I started wearing the “non-court semi-casual look” that I prefer – an unconstructed sportcoat, jeans, casual shirt or t-shirt, and dress sneakers – all from Syd Jerome, of course. Finally, I felt like a grownup. Courts are slowly and responsibly opening up. You see more people walking in the Loop wearing facemasks. I am beginning to feel more comfortable with Zoom court hearings (I have even learned how to mute and unmute the microphone and start the video portion of a hearing). I dress for the occasion – no sweatpants or shorts under a suit jacket. I wear a tie. When it comes to clothing, I like to dress the part. Like Tony, feeling comfortable in my “court armor” makes me feel more professional. But the world has changed. Yes, a lot of people are working from home and not wearing suits all the time, but working professionals should always look their best. The classic adage 'dress to impress' as you would for in-person meetings also stays true for Zoom meetings. To address the new (virtual) normal caused by the pandemic, Syd Jerome has brought in a line of clothing from Peter Millar, an American brand whose clothes are versatile, stylish, and functional. You can transition these clothes from remote working to hitting the golf course. Syd Jerome also carries MAC jeans, which has a comfortable stretch fabric and is great for working from home. A navy sportcoat or blazer is an essential piece in a wardrobe. It is one of the most interchangeable pieces that bridges the gap between business and casual. In fact, Syd Jerome’s exclusive Blue Blazer Program is priced to address everybody’s “at-home” business needs. It pairs up nicely with golf shorts and even pajamas. I started this blog because of my passion for style. To me and many others, Syd Jerome is an iconic menswear store with rich history and legacy. It reminds me of how my family’s menswear stores were in their heyday in the Newark suburbs. They provided a livelihood for sales staff, associates, and tailors. Scott and the others at the store are cautiously optimistic about the future. Without Syd Jerome, we will lose a piece of Chicago retail history. Syd Jerome is currently open Monday through Saturday from 8:30am-5:00pm Come by and say hello to some old friends.
So, will masks become the new fashion accessory? I have been collecting silk pocket squares since I was a teenager working at my uncle’s clothing store. I even inherited some old pocket squares. The older squares were larger and had a different configuration than many of the pocket squares used today. So, when the pandemic hit, I looked into my collection and started using some of these silkpocket squares as masks. They made an interesting fashion statement but they fogged my glasses and were hard to keepup. Maybe there was a way around it. With this conundrum, I started reading on what fabrics make great masks. Around the same time, I found out that Italo Ferretti, a company famous for luxury handmade silk accessories out of Silvi Marina, Italy, who’s been in business since 1967, started designing silk masks. As a ubiquitous and necessary part of the pandemic, Ferretti designed their masks in a way that make them utilitarian and functional. These masks come with two washable cotton inserts and a pouch which can be used as a silk pocket square! They even come in different designs, sizes and have a hidden adjustable band to press onto your nose so the mask will stay up and not fog your glasses. And, when I heard that his company kept his workers employed by designing silk masks, I knew I had to get them. So, I called Scott at the store and got the masks from Italo Ferretti. When I take my daily solo socially distant walks, I have noticed a myriad of masks on the streets of Chicago. They have even become the subject of a number of newspaper and magazine articles. Some of these articles even discuss the history of masks. I have also read articles detailing how people are re-fashioning items from their closets thereby creating a rainbow of homemade masks. This new signature accessory has given fashion a new element, but it has given businesses across the U.S. a new opportunity to innovate and reach new audience. But the Italo Ferretti masks are the first ones that complement what Syd Jerome stands for-high fashion and style. The store is reopened now and taking customers by appointment only. So, if you want one of these sustainable masks, make sure to call Scott at the store at 312-346-0333 or email at [email protected]. These masks are so popular that he sold out within an hour. So, when the Criminal Courts reopen, I will be sporting my matching ensemble of Italo Ferretti tie and masks from their Spring collection. And, as long as the pandemic continues, these masks will be part of my uniform.
AM I AN INFLUENCER ? By Marc Kadish It was Thanksgiving. Our daughters, Amanda and Izzy, were home. I ask Izzy, our budding comedic screenwriter, to read my last column on Munroe Atelier. She reads it and says, “Dad, you are an influencer!” I’ve heard about influencers, but I thought you had to be under the age of 30 and possibly a female to be one? The definition of influencers seems to vary from person to person. I got curious. Therefore, I decided to look it up. Wired magazine says that the influencer culture is tied to consumerism and the rise of technology. It reads, “the term is shorthand for someone (or something) with the power to affect the buying habits or quantifiable actions of others by uploading some form of original—often sponsored—content to social media platforms like Instagram, YouTube, Snapchat, or, god forbid, LinkedIn.” With more customers supposedly trusting influencers, this comes as no surprise that Kylie Jenner is paid over a million dollars for a single post…although I think it is sheer lunacy! Being an influencer is not something that I pursue. I’m thrilled if anyone even reads my posts. Writing about men’s fashion is just a hobby as I continue as a Pro Bono Advisor at Mayer Brown. I simply enjoy fashion, particularly, men’s fashion. I enjoy visiting, chatting, browsing and shopping at Syd Jerome. Last winter even my warmest outer garments did not ward off the Polar Vortex. This past Fall, I asked Gary at the store to help me pick out the warmest outerwear possible. I wanted it to be knee length. I wanted it to have a hood. I wanted it to have insulation in the sleeves to keep my arms warm. The Herno coat ended up meeting my needs and it weighs almost nothing! Below is a picture of the coat in the store. The other pictures are of Mike Bornhorst (my colleague) modeling my coat and Herno representative at the store during the Herno Trunk Show this past year. An influencer? Mike had asked some advice on buying some new suits for court and client meetings. I recommended that he see Gary at the store. Today, Mike has purchased several suits from the store. As a fashion enthusiast, when I like a product or a brand, I enjoy recommending it to other people and helping my friends and colleagues find brands and styles that fit their lifestyle and taste. 
You Don’t Have to Spend a Million to Look Like a Million By Marc Kadish You are home from school for the Holidays. You are starting to think about your future. You have some job interviews scheduled. You are excited, but at the same time nervous. You want to create a first impression. You want to make sure everything goes well. What should you wear? You want to look appropriate. You look in your closet. Your bar mitzvah suit and some other old jackets are hanging there. They don’t fit and are out of style. Your father has shopped at Syd Jerome for years. He has just received the new issue of the magazine. You look through it. You admire the clothes in the magazine but you know the clothing your father buys at the store is more that you can afford. Besides you want to pay for an “interview suit” on your own. Leafing through the magazine you reach the Bullpen section which contains Advice from the Style Pros (i.e. the staff at the store) you read that Billy Cavada has written about his favorite new brand in the store- Atelier Munroe- “It’s a new custom line for us that does almost everything from head to toe.” Interesting - but you assume it’s too expensive for your budget. You meet your father in the Loop for lunch. You take a stroll by the new store and admire its new updated look. In the windows, you see displays by Atelier Munroe. They look modern and classic, but you still wonder whether you can afford them. You get curious about the brand and you ask. First thing you learn is that the price of a custom Atelier Munroe suit is perfect as an “interview suit.” The entire line provides a reasonably priced starter wardrobe. But how does it work? The store has a virtual Atelier Munroe showroom. There are drawers of fabric swatches for suits, sport coats, outerwear, linings and even buttons. The salesman turns on the special computer to show you the various models and fashion details to choose from. There are even models in the store for you to try on. You look at the fabric swatches, then you choose the model, lining and buttons. It takes about a month for the garment to arrive in the store. The tailors can then make any necessary adjustments. The great thing about this brand is that it’s not just for young men. The brand works for everyone, including myself. My curiosity peaked about the brand led me to try one of their sport coats. Personally, I like to wear a sport coat and jeans to the office when I am not going to court. Gary (one of the wardrobe consultants at the store) and I selected the fabric in the photo and ordered an unstructured sport coat and added the brown Meyers casual slacks and Mac jeans (two of my favorite lines). We paired it with a pair of brown Magnanni leather casual shoes. The entire outfit- sport coat, the two pants and shoes- cost under $1500. That's two casual outfits! For job interviews you should select one of their suit fabrics. The suits start at $795 and will never cost you over $1000. That’s a great and a smart investment if you come to think about it. Landing a great job has a lot to do with how you present yourself. Atelier Munroe will help you create that first impression. All you have to do is simply prepare for your interview.
TO SOCK OR NOT TO SOCK, THAT IS THE QUESTION An Idiosyncratic Discussion of Men’s Hosiery By Marc Kadish With apologies to Shakespeare for misappropriating Hamlet’s famous soliloquy, let me ask, would you go sockless while appearing in federal court for a jury trial? While wearing a suit to an important business meeting, would you also go sockless? Under what circumstances would I go sockless? Obviously not during a cold Chicago winter day. During summer, if I am wearing a casual unconstructed sport coat and jeans, I will go sockless even in the office, as long as I am not meeting with clients. I will also go sockless while wearing shorts. But there are times when socks just feel more comfortable. I find that “hidden socks” neither stay hidden nor are they comfortable because they always slide down and crunch up in your shoes. “Gym socks” are fine if you are going to work out or go for a long walk, but I always wear white ones….and I still feel uncomfortable wearing “ankle” socks with shorts or jeans. On the occasions when I want to wear hosiery with jeans and a sport coat, I don’t wear dress socks. Instead I pick out a thicker “gym sock” in a color that matches the jeans or cotton slacks. But if I am wearing a suit or more formal sport coat and slacks, I always wear over the calf hosiery in a color that matches the suit or pants. I find the longer length is more comfortable and I don’t like “leg” to show. I normally wear a wool blend because they provide another layer of warmth during the winter and absorb foot sweat during the summer. I stay away from mid-calf socks because I find they always slide down my legs. At Syd Jerome, they carry both Brioni and Marcoliani hosiery. I am trying out a pair of the Marcoliani socks. It is a family run company that was started in Italy in 1952 and is still headquartered there. Teddy Boone, the store’s window dresser, is showing one of the Marcoliani socks together with two pairs of “Happy Socks.” The other photos show Teddy setting up a window display of the “Happy Socks,” which is a company that features rock inspired and VERY colorful hosiery…which are very popular for gifts. Quite frankly, they are outside my comfort zone, but Scott gave my wife a box of Beatles socks, which are now part of her ever growing and extensive Beatles collection. So, have we answered the question? Navigating the Dress Code at Wimbledon By Marc Kadish One of my wife’s dreams for a significant birthday was to attend the Wimbledon tennis championships. Through a childhood family friend, we obtained two tickets at Center Court and two tickets for Court One for the women’s quarter finals on July 9th. My wife, Suzin and I, along with our daughters Amanda and Izzy alternated seats and saw the women’s quarter final matches with Serena Williams , and the match with the eventual winner Simona Halep and the mixed doubles match where Serena and Andy Murray played together. In addition, we also had passes to the Wimbledon private member’s club. There is no dress code for access just to view the matches, but there is a dress code for access to the private member’s club. I knew I had to wear a jacket and a tie. Before I left, Scott helped me put together a “Wimbledon Outfit.” I already had white jeans, a blue and white unconstructed cotton sports coat, a pink, white and blue striped tie and a white silk pocket square with pink trim. I picked out a new Eton shirt because it was easier to keep a new shirt neatly folded in its original package. I also purchased a pair of bright lightweight boat shoes. I thought I had complied with the dress code, but to my surprise, I wasn’t quite there. Luckily, I packed a pair of light cotton trousers from the store. However, when our ticket package arrived at our hotel in London, I found out that I was wrong. Jeans, including white jeans, were forbidden. You also had to wear socks and dress shoes. I had special orthopedic socks for the long plane ride to Europe, but I had not packed any dress shoes. But I guess the bright shoes passed muster because there I am seated at Court One for the Halep quarter final victory. The Wimbledon was quite an experience for our entire family, especially, for my wife Suzin. I definitely learned quite a bit about how to dress for the Wimbledon, while keeping your style in mind. ACCEPTABLE DRESS The dress standard for gentlemen is a lounge suit or tailored jacket, shirt, tie, trousers and dress shoes (with socks). UNACCEPTABLE DRESS Gentlemen are asked to refrain from wearing the following: T-shirts, jeans or denim of any type or color (including white), shorts, zipper jackets and hoodies. Gentlemen are also asked not to wear casual shoes, flip flops, sandals, or dress shoes without socks.
Samuelsohn Suits-Worth the Investment! Samuelsohn is one of the high-end luxury clothing brands that Syd Jerome has carried for ten years. Samuelsohn suits are known for their luxurious fabrics and superior craftmanship. Their suits are synonymous for longevity and performance. In fact, I like Samuelsohn suits so much that Dorian Anderson (pictured with Billy), the Samuelsohn representative, has helped me design four suits and three sports coats. Recently Lucy Holifield, one of my colleagues at Mayer Brown, joined the firm from a federal district court clerkship in Arkansas. We bonded over our love of fashion. She does not fit into a regular men’s suit size. Lucy had a number of Samuelsohn suits made for her while she was in Arkansas. She wanted another Samuelsohn suit and I brought her to Syd Jerome. With such an extensive array of clothing in the store why would I want to have a suit or sport coat designed. At the beginning of each season, I decide whether I want a new suit or sport coat. If there is something in stock I will purchase it. I purchased a glen plaid Samuelsohn suit from stock. Another time I wanted a lighter weight navy blazer. Patrick showed me a Pal Zilari which had just arrived. Last Fall I wanted a patterned sport coat. Scott helped me pick out a Canali. But on occasion I want something different. It could be a double-breasted suit, a suit with peak lapels with a vest, special pleated pants, a special trouser top, a fancy lining and special buttons. The gray flannel suit that I am wearing in the picture with Lucy and in the picture with Lori Lightfoot, the new mayor, at her farewell party at Mayer Brown, had all the special details that Samuelsohn offers. Lucy was able to select all the details she wanted.Dorian, who’s worked at Samuelsohn for 15 years, is always available to his customers and he works closely with you in helping you pick out a fabric and designing a garment. Apart from waiting about five weeks for the garment’s arrival there is little extra cost. I wear a stock size, a vest is extra, the special trouser top adds $25. A fancy paisley lining and special buttons are free. Once the garment arrives at the store there is always some tailoring that is necessary to make certain it fits perfectly. Patrick and Gary at the store are helpful and they work with you to make sure that your suit fits you perfectly. So, if you can wait a few extra weeks and you want something with special details visit the store and have the sales staff and Dorian help you. Samuelsohn suits are made with finest tailored clothing and exemplify the finest in luxury menswear. Believe me, it will be worth it. Syd Jerome Presents... Syd Jerome Moving to a New Location and Hiring a New Publicist By Marc Kadish In the last few months, I have been taking a little hiatus from writing for Syd Jerome’s blog, Sartorially Speaking. I have been quite busy with trials and helping with the first U.S. showing of a play called “PLEASE CONTINUE (HAMLET),” a joint venture between the Chicago Humanities Festival and the Museum of Contemporary Art. It’s been shown more than 170 times in over 15 countries. This is the first time it was produced in the United States.
I want to focus this blog piece to talk about two things: Syd Jerome’s move to a new location and the hiring of its new publicist. In the next several weeks, Syd Jerome will be moving to a new location, 20 North Clark. It is located one block east on the Northwest corner of Madison and Clark. The store will have a completely new look and provide customers with a state-of-the-art shopping experience. The store will feature window displays of high-end American and European brands and include soft-shops of Canali, Eton and PT01.
Recently, the store also revealed a new logo, that represents their 60 years of fashion heritage and our brand legacy. Right now, in order to prepare for the move, the store is having a huge moving sale, 50-90% OFF on luxury menswear designs from all over the world. This moving sale is granting Syd Jerome customers unprecedented access to a premier selection of luxury products.
Furthermore, Syd Jerome has hired a publicist to handle their PR and marketing. Megha Hamal has more than ten years of PR experience. In the past, she has overseen PR for large corporations and organizations. We are excited to have her onboard to continue to elevate Syd Jerome’s brand in the local and national media market.
Syd Jerome Presents.... June 12, 2018 “HONOR THY FATHER “
At that point John Kinsella has his whole life ahead of him. My dad had his whole life ahead of him. He was 28 in 1946. I was three. My brother Jeff was one. My brother Jed and my sister Robin weren’t even on the horizon. Even after he, my mother and sister moved to Florida in his early 50’s he continued to beat me at paddle ball. He would stand in the middle of the court with a baseball cap on backwards, a cold cigar clamped in his mouth and run me all over the court. The house was built in the early 40’s. The Pleasantdale section of West Orange was still considered the country . There was a cornfield behind our house and a small apple orchard nearby. My grandfather had a large vegetable garden. He added a laundry room at the back of our house and built a deck. He was able to put his feelings in a letter. One of the assigned stories for the conference was a famous short story by Tolstoy, the famous 19th century Russian author, called “ The Death of Ivan Ilych,” a lawyer who was dying and feared death. We don't need Father's Day: “To Honor Thy Father.” Anyone who wants to share memories of their father just write me and it will be posted.
Syd Jerome Presents...
May 2018
COME SAY HELLO TO LORI VAUGHAN-DAILEY
She is the newest sales consultant at the store and has been in the industry for 15 years. She has worked in both wholesale and retail in men’s fashions. She managed stores for the Custom Shop in both Chicago and Los Angeles. She also worked for the Individualized Apparel Group handling custom orders for Oxxford Clothes and custom shirts. She had been coming to the store for custom shirt trunk shows for as long as she was in the industry. Scott reached out to her when the store needed a new sales consultant. She is at the store on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.
In writing this column she and I had several discussions. We discussed her notion that men dress for women. She believes men like having a woman’s opinion on fashion.
As I’ve written about in many columns my relationship with the store reminds me of my family’s stores in New Jersey. One of my mother’s sisters was Aunt Sarah (also known as Mickey). She ran the East Orange store with my Uncle Gene. She was an early female pioneer in the industry. One of the Newark papers even ran an article on her in the 50s.The story highlighted how she was well known for measuring trouser inseams when fitting a man’s garment!
Lori, like my Aunt Sarah, has a long history in the business. In writing this column I read other men’s fashion blogs. Many of them give advice on how and where to shop. This column is different because I write only about the store. The sales consultants, like Lori, have all the expertise one needs.
SO stop in and say hello to her and even let her order some custom made shirts for you!
 Syd Jerome Presents...
February 20, 2018
“ IF IT DOES NOT FIT, YOU MUST ACQUIT.” –Johnnie Cochran, OJ Simpson closing argument
"IF IT DOES NOT FIT, IT DOES NOT LEAVE THE STORE!" --Scott Shapiro, Syd Jerome
Mike Bornhorst Buys Two Suits
Mike, a lawyer at the Chicago office of Mayer Brown, is a colleague and a friend. He came to talk with me because his suits were hurting his suits ( lawsuits where he is counsel)…..plus his wife said he needed some new suits to make him look like a grownup.
He asked me to take him to the store. Gary and I suggested a number of suits for him to choose from. He chose a Samuelsohn and a Hickey Freeman.
Every suit you buy has to be altered. It could be anything from just lengthening or shortening the sleeves on the suit coat or finishing the cuffs on the pants. The jacket may have to be let in or let out.
Now comes the part that I enjoy the most-accessorizing the suit. The suit should be part of an ensemble. Gary and I helped Mike select two shirts and two ties that can be worn with both suits.
The Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman models fit Mike a little differently. So when he came into the store to try on both suits the Hickey Freeman suit needed some further alteration. Patrick, who is in charge of the tailor shop at the store, chalked and pinned the suit for additional alterations.
P.S. My cultural references seem to be consistent with my age. When I discussed the column with my younger daughter Izzy, who wants to be a writer and is now working in Hollywood, her first response? “Who is Johnnie Cochran?” She was born in 1994 and Cochran used the phrase in his closing argument on September 28,1995.
THE PHOTOS? THE PROCESS-START TO FINISH WITH THE END BEING A SATISFIED MAN. Like I said, if it does not fit, it does not leave the store !
 Syd Jerome Presents... JUDGE WILLIAM BAUER OF THE FEDERAL SEVENTH CIRCUIT COURT OF APPEALS "THE DAPPER MENSCH" There is a story I always heard about an oral argument that took place in the Seventh Circuit. A young lawyer from Madison, Wisconsin had an oral argument on a case. Unfortunately, he had to take his child to the Emergency Room. He called the court to advise he was on his way, but requested that his case be moved to the last argument for the day. He periodically called the Court to advise he was on his way. He was still late. Upon his arrival, one of the three judges presiding over arguments that day lambasted him for being late. Judge Bauer leaned forward and said "you have to excuse my colleague, he does not have any children." A mensch is the Yiddish word that signifies someone is "a person of integrity and honor." That's Judge Bauer. Not only is he a mensch, but he's a dapper gentleman! He's 91, and looks very sharp, as you can see from the pictures below of the Judge and Ty Fahner. Ty Fahner, a former Chair of Mayer Brown and I had lunch with the Judge recently. It was after the oral arguments for the day were finished: 91, looking sharp and working every day. Ty and I should be so lucky. SOME PERSONAL STORIES Early in my career — different times. It's a class action civil rights suit on behalf of inmates placed in an early behavior modification unit at the now-closed Joliet prison. The case was assigned to Judge Bauer. One of the inmates was serving a natural life sentence for his involvement in an infamous attempted armed robbery of a Thillens check-cashing truck at a Bell and Howell plant in Lincolnwood. A shoot-out with police occurred. People died. Somehow this inmate meets a nice woman who is willing to marry him. Judge Bauer agrees to perform the ceremony in chambers. No idea what happened to the marriage, or any memory of what happened to the lawsuit, but the guy is still in prison 47 years later. But I never forgot the Judge's kindness. STORY TWO It's 1985 and the parents of a girl I dated in college (the relationship was short-lived, but the parents became life-long friends) took me to Italy and Greece. We were in Sorrento at a hotel overlooking the Mediterranean. We agreed to meet at the large outdoor bar. I was early. The bar was jammed. There was a man with his back to me sitting alone at a small table. My Italian was limited to "Me Scoozi" and I tapped him on the shoulder. It was Judge Bauer! As Humphrey Bogart said in Casablanca: "Of all the gin joints in the world." STORY THREE One of the great private legal service providers in Chicago is the Chicago Legal Clinic. It was started in 1981 by two law students from DePaul Law School, Father, now Bishop, Thomas Paprocki and Ed Grossman. From one office they set up after the South Works of U.S. Steel shut down; it has grown to a multi-office, multi-legal project organization. But what does this have to do with Judge Bauer? He has bcen the Master of Ceremonies at the organization's annual fund-raising dinner for years (check out their website and consider a contribution). One of Mayer Brown's main pro bono projects is the Seventh Circuit Project where we have handled around 170 appeals on behalf of indigent clients. I've sat at counsel table with our lawyers for many of the oral arguments. When Judge Bauer sits on the panel, I know our lawyers will be treated with courtesy and respect. Does this have anything to do with the store? No, but I hope you don't mind me stretching the column a bit. But let's go back to keeping warm in the winter — two additional tips: 1) Over the calf wool (not cotton) socks add another layer of warmth for you legs; 2) Toe warmers you can buy at places like Dick's Sporting Goods for about $2.00 each. Goodbye to Kathy Bryja, who helped me post the column. Thanks to Thane Johnson, whose company works on the website for the store and will now help post the column. Judge Bauer to the left and Ty Fahner to the right
Syd Jerome Presents... ACCESSORIZING YOUR WINTER COAT OR WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED TO KEEP WARM IN THE WINTER?
The last column was about Canada Goose and Norwegian Wool coats. I included photos of various Mayer Brown friends wearing the coats. Any non-professional photos were taken by me; any professional photos were taken by Jessica Fletcher, the Graphic Design Specialist in the Chicago office of Mayer Brown. What I neglected to mention was that page 62 of the Fall Syd Jerome magazine contains a photo of a down red hooded down coat from Canada Goose. Page 63 contains a photo of a light brown coat from Norwegian Wool. Those two pages gives you a much better close up of what the coats look like. But what else do you need to stay warm this winter? Good boots, gloves, scarves and something to cover your head and ears. Winters in Scandinavia are supposed to be brutal (Just read Jo Nesbo’s book “The Snowman!”) which is why the store carries Swim boots; gloves from Hestra and baseball caps with earflaps from Wigens - all three companies are from Scandinavia. This year the store carries a storm gaiter with zippers from SWIMS. They are not overshoes. You wear them in lieu of shoes (SWIMS also makes some great lightweight non-leather loafers for the Summer. I have a pair of navy/orange loafers that I wear without socks with jeans and a casual cotton sport coat). Moving onto gloves. This year the store started carrying Hestra gloves. I bought a pair. The front is light gold leather; the back is gray wool. They have a nice warm lining. One of the photos below has a shot of the Hestra glove collection in the store.
Sample scarves - here I used Mayer Brown models. Lindsay Brown, a finance associate at the firm, who was a student in the class I co-taught at Northwestern Law School makes a very able model by wearing a medium blue matching scarf and beanie cap from FLY 3. Jessica Fletcher, our favorite photographer, who took the pictures of Lindsay, is wearing a multi color beanie from the store.
Lindsay is also wearing a black cap from Wigens of Sweden. The exterior is a synthetic blend that wards off wind, snow and rain. The lining is a fur like polyester. I have had two Wigens caps for several years – the black one and a beige wool one with a quilted polyester lining - also with ear flaps.
The store also carries inexpensive expandable earmuffs that I sometimes wear over the earflaps from the Wigens caps on those days when the wind uncomfortably blows against your ears. If it gets any colder than that…stay home. Don’t wear a balaclava that covers everything except your eyes. The police might mistake you for a bank robber!
Syd Jerome Presents... CANADA GOOSE OR NORWEGIAN WOOL? “With a Little Help From My Friends”
It’s getting colder. You need or want a new winter coat. You decide it’s too cold for a topcoat (Good for a Fall day; The store has these). You already have an overcoat for court, weddings, bar-mitzvahs, important business meetings etc. (the store has these also.) You want something else. Do you want a coat to walk your dog or go hiking in a forest preserve on a snowy day? Or do you want a coat that’s warm but still stylish enough to wear over a sport coat or you can wear to the movies or dinner on a Saturday with jeans and a sweater? The choice is not limited to “Canada” or “Norway.” The store carries other lines, but I have decided to limit this column to these two companies. I like Norwegian Wool coats. Besides Suzin and I don’t have a dog anymore. I’m waiting for a good snowy day to go tramping along the lakefront or in a forest preserve…but warm footwear will be just as important as the outerwear. So I enlisted friends from Mayer Brown to model some of the coats. (You’ll note that the more professional looking photos were taken by Jessica Fletcher, the Graphic Design Specialist from the Chicago office of the firm. The other photos were taken by me. I even enlisted a friend, Kathleen Przywara , to model one of the coats - without realizing that the store carries a few Canada Goose coats for women. I also took a picture of one of the windows at the store, which has a Canada Goose ensemble.
The Norwegian Wool coats, as the name implies, are made of a special treated wool to make them practical for a Chicago winter where you can get a bitterly cold rain, sleet or snow. The Canada Goose coats don’t have a wool shell. They come in either a quilted or solid exterior. I never liked the quilted look because it made me feel like the “Michelin Man.” The Canada Goose coats come with a hood; the Norwegian Wools do not. They both come in a variety of lengths. My Norwegian Wool hits me about the middle of my thighs.
Both coats have a down interior. This makes them warm enough to survive a Chicago winter. The down also makes them easier to come on and off. The down also makes them more lightweight. I remember years ago buying from a thrift shop what I was told was a military officer’s coat from WWI. I thought it was historical, stylish etc. The problem was I got a hernia every time I put it on. It was very heavy and to make it even worse it was not very warm! It was discarded long before I started shopping at the store. Hopefully you will have use for both coats. But for me, if I had to choose one I like the Norwegian Wool look. I bought a similar coat from the store a number of years ago. It has always met my needs. It’s been warm enough for your average Chicago winter day. It battles the diverse Chicago winter elements. It’s lightweight. It’s long enough to cover a suit or sport coat. I can wear it to work or to the movies on a weekend. It does not look or feel too bulky. So this year I bought one of the Norwegian Wool coats in a medium blue shade! Two of the “models” in the photos are wearing the same coat.
AND A FURTHER IMPORTANT DETAIL - BUY A WINTER COAT OVER $500 IN COST BY NOVEMBER 30TH AND RECEIVE A $200 DISCOUNT! Next column - Let’s continue with winter accessories and talk about hats, gloves, scarves and Swim over boots. Syd Jerome Presents… CANALI, CANNOLI AND PHIL CORBOY JR.
Last year around this time I did a column on Canali, an Italian clothing line featured at the store, and one of the scenes from “The Godfather” with the lines “Leave the gun,take the cannoli.” The picture below was taken with Peter Belci, the Canali sales representative, and me at last Fall’s trunk show. I’m wearing a Canali suit which is still one of my favorites.
So lets talk about this Fall’s Canali clothing and what that has to do with Phil Corboy Jr., a well known plaintiff’s personal injury lawyer in Chicago, whose picture is also set forth below. He and I have been friendly since he was a States Attorney and we opposed each other in criminal cases.
But many men don’t come to the store like Phil with a clothes line in mind. They come in because they need a suit or sport coat. You can depend on the expertise of the sales personnel to ask the appropriate questions and have you try on a number of suits or sport coats to see what fits best and meets your needs. The store features many clothing lines ( Take a look at the new Syd Jerome magazine which just came out…and even features an article on this column.) but the store carries a large volume of Canali clothing. We carry several Canali models. They all feature a softer shoulder with little padding, a slimmer and shorter two button jacket (but not too extreme),side vents and plain front trousers. The cost of a Canali suit runs between $1800 to $2200.We also carry overcoats, sport coats, dress shirts and ties from Canali. Phil likes Canali clothing because the various models fit him so well. He occasionally will have a vest made to complement a new suit. If you want something different such as a three button jacket, an even slimmer cut suit or a double breasted suit the store has books from Canali called Su Misura.You can order something special from the book or look at it to see how Canali puts together a complete look with ties and shirts to go with the clothing. So come in and look at the new Canali fashions. This year they are showing British inspired fabric with an Italian twist! Syd Jerome Presents... September 29, 2017 IT WAS SPRING TIME AND A YOUNG MAN’S FANCY TURNS TO…
IT'S FALL AND A MAN’S FANCY TURNS TO THE CUBS…
AND FALL FASHIONS
IT’S TRUNK SHOW TIME AT THE STORE
LET’S TALK ABOUT ETON SHIRTS
Lindsay Connolly is Eton’s Sales Activator (interesting job description!) for North America. That’s her with Scott Shapiro and me in front of the Eton shirt display at the trunk show in the store. Eton shirts are made in Sweden. The company was founded in 1928. Syd Jerome was one of the first stores in the U.S. to stock their shirts. They offer dress shirts, sport shirts, ties, pocket squares, scarves and some jewelry. Eton shirts were featured in a July 5th, 2017 issue of the Wall Street Journal. They have a sophisticated Internet presence so check it out. I have a number of Eton shirts and ties. I am wearing a pink striped Eton shirt and tie in the photo. The shirts retail from $245 to $285. The ties retail for $145.The shirts are made from wrinkle free cotton. I can wear them two to three times before they have to be laundered (always by hand by a good laundry and never have them starched ) They never shrink. They have perfected a way of embedding permanent stays in the collars which never shift and never show a “stay outline.” Eton offers slim, contemporary and classic fits. I wear the contemporary. It fits me like a custom made shirt. Their most popular collar style is a moderate spread (which I am wearing in the photo). This fall, they are showing hidden button down collars (e.g. the blue and red plaid in front of the collection in the picture) in patterned designs which are supposed to be worn as sport shirts. They are part of a program called Nordic Getaway featuring outdoor fall colors like rusts and greens. Eton has even designed ties to complement the shirts. I like the Nordic Getaway look. I would wear them as both a sport shirt and under a sport coat with a wool tie. I like the softer casual look of the collar. The hidden buttons anchor the collars and keep them in place. ON AN UNRELATED NOTE….I want to do a future column on the perpetual question of what a lawyer should wear before a jury. Any lawyers with thoughts on the subject, feel free to email me at [email protected]. Syd Jerome Presents... September 8, 2017 Meet Brian Lighty
Syd Jerome Presents... August 25, 2017 SOMEONE YOU SHOULD KNOW - MEET THEODORE BOONE Last week's blog had a picture of Mr. Boone. I said I would write this week's column on the window displays at the store. Mr. Boone is one of the last of the independent window trimmers in the city.
Syd Jerome Presents... August 18, 2017 NO COLUMN FOR A FEW MONTHS - WHAT HAPPENED? Let’s just say I was working on a pro bono murder case and helping our older daughter get ready to start night law school in the Fall. She works as a paralegal in Manhattan and lives in “The Promised Land” – Brooklyn. So she will attend Brooklyn Law School. But also because the store’s website was being redesigned so the column would have its own button at the top of the home page. Just go to sydjerome.com and take a look. That also made me think about what I wanted to accomplish through my writing. Billy Cavada, one of the salesman from the store, sends out daily information about new goods and events. There is a new feature called SYDTV which already has videos on “HOW TO: Fold a Pocket Square”, ”HOW TO: Tie a Fat Tie” and “SEASON PREVIEW:Etro Fall 2017.” I hope to do something with SYDTV but the blog has to be something different. OK-so that explains what I did this Summer (The murder trial ended in a not guilty after a jury trial.) What about future columns? 1) What do you wear for a murder trial? 2) A column about a client of the store who is also a friend. His name is Brian Lighty. We are going to call that column “We Agree On Everything About Fashion, Except Bowties!” 3) “Someone You Should Know-Meet Theodore Boone.” Ever wonder who puts together the window displays at the store? Mr. Boone, who is one of the last of the independent window dressers in the city, works with Juan Farfan from the store on the displays. He’s holding a garment steamer in the picture below. Do they really work? Let’s talk about it next week.
IT'S GOOD TO BE BACK! Syd Jerome Presents... THE NEW SYD JEROME SPRING/SUMMER MAGAZINE JUST ARRIVED - TIME TO CHECK YOUR CLOSET I was looking for inspiration for this column when the new issue of the magazine arrived. I had already been looking through my closets to see what needed altering and what needed discarding (A suit and sport coat were donated through Mayer Brown to the Urban Alliance which requested “gently used professional clothing.”) Given my supposed slow down and transition to Pro Bono Advisor (I’m a failure at slowing down, but I still enjoy being a lawyer and dressing for court - albeit less than before.) did I want or need a new suit? And if so…vested or double breasted? But while I like both styles, they could be too uncomfortable on a hot Chicago summer day. So, what about a new navy blazer? They never go out of style and they can be dressed up or worn casually. But I did not want a navy blazer that looked like I was wearing a navy suit sans trousers. I wanted a more relaxed looking fabric. SO STRUCTURED VS UNSTRUCTURED? I stopped in the store thinking I would look at fabric samples to design a sport coat. I knew I wanted an unstructured sport coat. A structured sport coat will have some shoulder padding and a full lining. It will also have canvas between the fabric and the lining. This gives it a more structured look. An unstructured sport coat will have little or no shoulder padding. You will only feel fabric when you touch the shoulders. It will also have either a partial lining, known as a butterfly lining, in the upper part of the jacket or no lining. The butterfly lining makes it easier to take the coat on or off. No lining reduces the weight of the jacket and makes it cooler to wear. The other look I like in an unstructured sport coat is open patch pockets. Flap pockets give the coat a dressier look. I was looking through fabric selections when Scott brought over an unlined Pal Zileri jersey lightweight wool blazer. It was just what I was looking for - no waiting for a coat to be made. The only change we added was to substitute a lighter button for the ones that came with the coat. This makes it look even less like a suit jacket and adds to the casual look of the coat. As you can see from the photo below, we put together a complete outfit. Paired with a blue Eton shirt, a light colored striped silk tie from Senstroms and a blue denim pocket square from Paolo Albizzati (I like cotton or wool pocket squares because they don’t sink into your chest pocket and they look more casual than silk pocket squares) and dress wool trousers, I am ready for any occasion - even court; so long as I am not in front of a jury! I can dress the jacket down by pairing it with jeans or khaki (chino) trousers and a sport shirt or even a t-shirt.
So stop in and see the large collection of unstructured sport coats. But there are plenty of dressier structured sport coats - if the mood or occasion demands it. P.S. – As usual, Juan is responsible for making certain the outfit looks presentable in a photo! Syd Jerome Presents... The Quintessential Men's Suit Accessory
A pocket square fits into the breast pocket of your suit coat. Look at any movie where Cary Grant is wearing a suit. You will always see a pocket square. I've been wearing them since I worked at my uncle's clothing store as a teenager. I wore them with both suits and sport coats. For many years I wore a solid color silk pocket handkerchief's, but in my old age I have gotten more adventuresome. As long as the colors coordinate, I'll use patterned squares to coordinate with patterned ties, shirts and suits or sport coats. One thing that did frustrate me was that the silk squares slid down and disappeared into the breast pocket. So I really appreciated it when fabrics, other than silk, have recently become popular. The new issue of the Syd Jerome magazine had a short story on "Pocket Rounds," which are easier to fold and stay up. Scott and I picked out one with a new suit I ordered last Fall. The pocket round worked just like the article said it would! A patterned square adds a dash of elegance to your outfit. Try one out for yourself. Syd Jerome Presents... WHAT DO YOU WEAR ON VACATION? My wife , Suzin, our younger daughter Izzy and I are on a nine hour flight back from a ten day vacation in Hawaii. Originally, I thought I would take a vacation from writing the column. But I also thought before leaving that if inspiration struck I would comment on the traditional aloha shirt. But other than service people such as wait staffs at restaurants and the people working at the car rental agency, I did not see enough people wearing them to feel comfortable commenting on that fashion item. The picture below was taken by Izzy on one of the balconies at the house with Kailua beach in the background. I'm wearing Paul and Shark white jeans, an Agave t-shirt and Swims boat shoes ( All from the store.) That's the only time I wore long pants and a long sleeve shirt. I wore less than half the shorts and shirts I packed for the trip. I brought along a pair of sweat pants and three sweaters but the only time I wore them was on the plane because I am always freezing on long flights. I basically lived in two bathing suits, two work out shirts and flip flops.
Syd Jerome Presents... SPECIAL NOTICE TO COUNSEL WHO WILL PRESENT ORAL ARGUMENT: DO SEVENTH CIRCUIT JUDGES CARE HOW YOU DRESS? Paragraph 8 –“ Appropriate attire for counsel is conservative business dress in traditional dark colors (e.g. navy blue or charcoal gray)” For those of you reading this who are not lawyers, the United States Supreme Court is the highest court in the land. The intermediate federal courts are the Circuit Courts of Appeals. The trial level federal courts are the District Courts. The Seventh Circuit sits in Chicago and hears appeals from Illinois, Indiana and Wisconsin. The court is filled with bright and caring judges, but I’ve never seen any of them mention paragraph eight at a closing argument. In my 16 ½ years as the Director of Pro Bono Activities and Litigation Training for Mayer Brown, I’ve attended close to 150 oral arguments because our Seventh Circuit Project is one of our main pro bono projects. Perhaps it's because I sit at counsel table supervising the arguments of our young associates rather than making the oral argument, but no judge has ever looked askance at the light gray Samuelsohn suit I’ve worn to a number of oral arguments.
I can’t guarantee your outfit will win the case, but at least looking well will permit the Court to concentrate on your argument rather than your appearance. Until next time, Syd Jerome Presents... Welcome to my first column for the Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish men's fashion blog series. Allow me to introduce myself. I recently stepped down as the Director of Pro Bono Activities and Litigation Training at the law firm Mayer Brown LLP this past January. I continue to work at the firm on a part time basis, but now I feel it is time to expand my horizons. Since I don't play golf, I decided to spend my time launching this fashion column. So why fashion? Since as long as I can remember, I have always loved fashion. Since childhood, it was always a way I expressed myself. Throughout high school and college, I was dressed to the nines. My fellow classmates even noticed, as they voted me best dressed in our high school yearbook.
I've been a long time customer and fan of Syd Jerome Menswear. So much so that I've even been featured in the Syd Jerome magazine and on recent television appearances modeling Syd Jerome's latest styles from in store. When I was 14, my family decided I should work at my Uncle Harry's menswear store. I worked there throughout high school, college and law school. I even asked my uncle if I could join the family business, but he said there were already enough family members working in the store. By then, I had my own clientele that included doctors, lawyers and accountants- all inspiring potential professions as I thought about college. At that point, however, I still couldn't do simple math; I hated the sight of blood (despite going on to do criminal defense work for most of the career) - so I decided on law school!
Forty six years later, I'm still a lawyer. But, the love of men's clothes from my time at Uncle Harry's store has continued to stay with me. My wife, who is a long time public defender, even teases me that the only reason I agreed to have Chocolate Labs as part of our family was because their color complemented the earth tones of Fall and Winter clothing that I like. In my forthcoming blogs, I hope to answer some questions that guys, like myself, have when it comes to clothes: What types of shoes go with the outfits you are wearing; how long should your pants be; how do you decide whether your pants should be cuffed or uncuffed; what kind of socks should you wear with suits and much much more. I hope to answer all these questions, and then some. Again, I thank you for reading my first ever blog and I hope to become your source for fashion advice. Stay tuned! -Marc Kadish |
Phil shops at Syd Jerome. He likes Canali clothes. Scott calls him at the beginning of each season when the Canali suits and sport coats arrive. Scott knows what Phil likes.
